Nicole Kliest

“Well, aren’t you living the life of Riley,” a stately Irishman named Dennis says with a grin. It’s my last night in Dromoland Castle, a historic estate-turned-hotel planted on the wild landscapes of Ireland’s County Clare, and I am on my fifth course at the hotel’s Earl of Thomond restaurant (the dish in question is the roast breast of Thorn Hill duck). Venturing alone into Ireland’s hidden heartlands in the dregs of winter may sound like a recipe for melancholic disaster, but as so many ‘off-season’ trips have taught me, any time is a good time.

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