There is a stretch of turquoise water at the foot of Germany's highest mountain that most international visitors simply do not know exists. People plan entire Bavarian itineraries around Munich, Neuschwanstein, the usual circuit – and somehow miss the lake sitting directly beneath the Zugspitze, ringed by forest, cold enough in July to genuinely wake you up when you jump in and clear enough to see the bottom from a kayak twenty metres out.
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