Depending on how you count it, Tokyo is a city of nine million (the central 23 wards), 14 million (Tokyo Metropolis) or 37 million (the Greater Tokyo Area). A densely populated urban area of this scale could be forgiven for the occasional erosion of social niceties but the Japanese capital is a place of unusually good manners. Dog walkers clear up after their pets with “etiquette bottles”, spraying water on the ground to ensure that no mess is left behind. House guests wouldn't consider passing the threshold without removing their shoes first. Patrons at the best sushi restaurants are reminded not to come doused in overpowering fragrances – not that they would anyway – because strong scents would ruin everyone else's enjoyment of the subtle cuisine. Being thoughtful is built into the fabric of daily life.
