Ella Joyce

Courrèges invited guests to the white cube space of Le Carreau du Temple once again this season, transforming the panting floor of FW24 into an installation by Finnish artist duo, Grönlund-Nisunen. As guests entered, the large “Ocean Drum” remained static but as the first model hit the runway the sculpture began to tip and hundreds of metal balls rushed around its surface to evoke the sound of crashing waves, which was soon taken over by a remix of Underworld’s Born Slippy.

Back in June, Dries Van Noten officially departed from his namesake label, marking the occasion with an emotional swansong show in Paris attended by family, friends and industry greats. Notably, there was no announcement of a successor, so when Dries’ name appeared on the SS25 schedule predictions for the brand’s next step began to circulate and as guests took to their seats inside a derelict building in Paris’ 9th arrondissement the anticipation to see what the future held for Dries felt palpable (spoiler: it didn’t disappoint).

For Seán McGirr ‘s sophomore McQueen show, the Irish designer invited guests to the École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts where a steel runway lined the floor of the 17th-century building and Renaissance statues overlooked from above. This season McGirr turned to the house’s FW 1994 collection, which saw Lee McQueen reimagine the Celtic figure of the Banshee and revel in Irish folkloric tales at a show staged inside London’s Cafe de Paris. Fast forward two decades and McGirr is evolving that legacy. The show notes placed at each seat were penned by Irish novelist Eimear McBride, opening with the line, “From the night I. And of darkness I. Am the creature to come,” setting the tone for a collection which celebrated the beauty that derives from the unknown. Smoke billowed across the runway and the first model appeared from the shadows.

Vivienne Westwood SS25 told us more sex, more fashion

Hermes showcased the fundamentals of luxury craft

Up the gunners

As a pioneer of British outerwear, Burberry has spent over 165 years perfecting its craft, from protecting explorers in extreme climates to manufacturing the instantly recognisable silhouette of a Burberry trench. To honour its evolving dedication to outerwear, the brand’s latest campaign is an ode to just that, spotlighting this season’s jackets and coats on a host of Britain’s most famous faces. Shot against the drizzly backdrop of the British countryside or the London skyline, the likes of Barry Keoghan, Olivia Colman, Cole Palmer, Eberechi Eze, Little Simz and Cara Delevigne stand in front of Alasdair McLellan’s lens.

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As a designer who revels in fashion’s symbiotic relationship with art, it was only a matter of time before Marco Capaldo officially bridged the gap. Often turning to various art forms for inspiration, FW24 saw the designer look to the work of writer and curator Charlie Fox, dissecting his exhibition My Head is a Haunted House

West Coast Livin’