Jay Rayner

Maida Grill House, 38 Liverpool Street, Salford M5 4LT (0161 312 9772, maidagrillhousesalford.co.uk ). Starters £2-£8; all other dishes £5-£8.50; unlicensed.

Panda's Kitchen, 152 Station Road, Harrow HA1 2RH ( pandas.kitchen ). Starters £6.50-£12.80; large dishes £10.80-£26.80; desserts £5.50-£6.50; wine from £19; Tsingtao beer £4.50

The spicy Sichuan food at Panda in Harrow has enough kick to take your mind off all worries

At Little Dumpling King in Stoke-on-Trent's Hanley, they make their own crispy chilli oil, which is much more crispy chilli than oil.

Jay Rayner became our restaurant critic 25 years ago. In this extract from his deliciously revealing new book, he shares memories – and recipes inspired by his favourite restaurant dishes

Giovanni's, 10 Goodwin's Court, London WC2N 4LL ( giovannislondon.co.uk ). Starters £13-£22.50; pasta £19–£27; mains £24–£36; dessert £8.50–£11.50; wine from £38 a bottle

Fond memories are reignited at this Italian stalwart, still serving great dishes after many years

There’s nothing like a bit of ‘kitchen lipstick’ to elevate even the most bog-standard food item

Tharavadu , 7-8 Mill Hill, Leeds LS1 5DQ (0113 244 0500). Starters £6.95-£13.95, mains £9.95-£21.75, desserts £4.75-£6.25, wines from £19.95, beer from £3.75

With real friendly warmth and great cooking, this Keralan place in Leeds is putting itself on the map