Of all the Japanese chefs in Paris, few blend French and Japanese approaches as well or as creatively as the man behind this intimate restaurant in the 11th arrondissement. It’s possible to order à la carte at lunch, but the move is to spring for the full tasting menu of four or six courses—with at least one glass of superbly selected natural wine—that rotate through a mix of cooking methods and unexpected flavor combinations. Smoked sardine on a lightly fried churros layered with anchovy cream might kick things off, and follow with two plump celeriac ravioli stuffed with trompette de la mort mushrooms in a fermented mushroom jus that goes hard on umami, and a wild Ikejime fish charcoal-grilled with endives. There’s also a surprising rendition of a cream puff that blends São Tamé dark chocolate and capers in a luscious mousse. Request one of the candlelit banquette tables if you plan to have a focused conversation, but know that the best seats are at the kitchen-facing counter, where the chef and his signature peroxide tips plates every dish while bopping along to Bob Dylan and Japanese jazz on vinyl.
France (National)
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